Die Curly Girl Methode von Lorraine Massey

Kristina is the founder of Lockenbox & Lockenexpertin. She has been intensively involved with the topic of curly hair care since her youth, when her straight hair suddenly turned into curls.

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Kristina is the founder of Lockenbox & Lockenexpertin. She has been intensively involved with the topic of curly hair care since her youth, when her straight hair suddenly turned into curls.

In her book “ Beautiful Curls - The Handbook ”, Lorraine Massey presents a care routine especially for curly hair, with which she guarantees that “your hair life will change completely” (p. 33). But what does the Curly Girl Method (CGM) according to Lorraine Massey actually say?

First of all: Forget all the rules you may have learned since childhood regarding your hair! Embrace a completely new routine:
CGM is primarily about getting your natural curls/curl structure back by avoiding certain ingredients and harmful practices . According to Lorraine Massey, curls and waves are mainly damaged by excessive heat, rough brushing with unsuitable brushes/combs and ingredients that remove natural oils from the hair and dry it out. These include ingredients that form an impermeable film around the hair and settle (water-insoluble silicones) and can ultimately only be washed out with very aggressive, scalp-damaging and drying surfactants (especially sulfates). To escape this build-up-promoting-drying cycle , Lorraine Massey has set out 5 rules in her book that can bring back your natural waves/curls and keep them healthy in the long term :

The 5 Principles according to Lorraine Massey

1. Use sulfate-free shampoos or botanical/herbal conditioners to cleanse scalp and hair

Since curly hair tends to be dry due to its nature, the Curly Girl Method avoids shampoos with strong surfactants (in her book, Lorraine Massey means sulfates by strong surfactants and uses the term shampoo as a synonym for shampoos containing sulfates). For this reason, she recommends using sulfate-free shampoos or botanical/plant-based conditioners to cleanse the scalp and hair. With sulfate-free When we talk about hair washing products, we mean a mild, sulfate-free shampoo, which is also known in the Curly Girl world as Low Poo .

In addition to the option of using sulfate-free hair washes, Lorraine Massey prefers washing with a conditioner, the no-poo (no shampoo) variant. According to her book, you can use either a silicone-free, botanical conditioner or a special co-wash product, which can also contain mild surfactants and thus has a slightly more cleansing effect than a conventional conditioner. Accordingly, the word co-wash is also written on the packaging and not just conditioner.

Whether the no-poo/co-washing or low-poo method (mild sulfate-free shampoo) is best for you depends largely on your curl type, porosity, thickness and density of your hair. Low-porosity hair, thicker hair patterns or type 4 hair can cope much more easily with co-washing than thinner hair patterns or wavy hair. Curlies with fine hair or looser curl patterns often find that the first experiment with the co-wash method leaves their hair feeling greasy. For some, their hair and scalp even out over time. Some, however, find that the no-poo/co-washing variant is not ideal for them even after weeks of trying. There is therefore nothing wrong with a 100% low-poo method if you need mild but more cleansing shampoos due to your hair structure and are not a fan of co-washing. And that's completely fine. It's all about finding a routine that works for your specific hair type and lifestyle and that you're happy with!

Nevertheless, here's a tip if the co-wash method hasn't worked for you so far: According to Lorraine Massey, when washing with a conditioner/co-wash, it is absolutely necessary to massage the entire surface of the head vigorously with circular movements and for a longer time than you are used to with a shampoo. Reason: Only then can the dirt from the scalp and hair be effectively removed. Lorraine compares this method to a washing machine drum (p. 35). In addition, the massaging movements are said to stimulate the blood supply to the scalp, which supplies it with nutrients, which in turn can lead to healthy hair and growth (p. 35).

Low Poo and No Poo are not an either/or situation, but can be combined wonderfully. Experience has shown that most curlies alternate between co-washing and a mild sulfate-free shampoo, for example once a week.

And that's a good thing! The 100% co-wash variant is viewed critically by some (including chemists in natural hair cosmetics), as it is recommended to clean the scalp and hair deeply at least every now and then with a suitable clarifying shampoo. If you stick strictly to silicone-free hair care, it doesn't even have to contain sulfates*! Before we move on to principle 2, we would like to briefly explain the point of clarifying :

Why Clarifying?

Since CGM now excludes depositing ingredients such as mineral oil-based ingredients (e.g. Vaseline or liquid mineral oil) and silicones, many people only rely on co-washing, because shampoo (even low-poos allowed according to Lorraine Massey's manual) should now be superfluous, right?
Despite the silicone-free and ideally mainly plant-based hair care, CGM also leads to deposits (build-up) on the hair. Fortunately, these build up over a much longer period of time and without the nasty side effects of silicones. Deposits are caused by rich ingredients such as shea butter, oils, the layers of styling products and, last but not least, lime and chlorine in the water, dirt from the environment and sweat. The scalp in particular suffers from this, and the result is clogged pores, hair loss, dandruff, itching and drooping, lifeless curls/waves. Many people cannot explain this sudden change in their scalp and hair. While their curls were previously bouncy and shiny, they now just hang down, the scalp itches and becomes flaky or even reacts with increased hair loss. At this point, a deep cleansing shampoo is overdue. However, if you continue to wash your hair with conditioner 100% of the time, this could become a problem, as these products are often unable to remove these deposits and only make the problem worse as more and more rich products build up. A deep cleansing shampoo is indispensable, especially if you only wash your hair with conditioner. Experienced curlies who follow the CGM therefore use one at least once a month. If you do a lot of sport (including swimming), only use very rich products such as shea butter or a lot of oils, or have very thin and easily weighed down hair, a clarifying shampoo may be in order more often. Too often, on the other hand, leads to the hair drying out. As with everything, find your individual balance. Anything that keeps your hair and scalp healthy in the long term and makes your curls bounce is allowed!

Depending on the shampoo's formula and the strength of the surfactants, clarifying shampoos have varying degrees of effectiveness. The best deep-cleansing shampoos contain surfactants that can effectively remove even stubborn build-up. Wendy The Hair Scientist from Sciene-y Hair Blog believes that the surfactant Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is the most suitable for this.
Since stronger surfactants naturally have a more drying effect, simply use a moisturizing deep conditioner . This will give you the desired cleansing effect, but the moisture balance will be restored immediately!

*Addition: Based on some advice from you experienced curlies, we have added an addition. The deep cleansing shampoo can of course be sulfate-free, but it doesn't have to be! Some even swear by the very rare but effective use of sulfate shampoos, as there are also curlies who are actually only able to completely remove all residues once in a while with the help of a sulfate (such as sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium coco-sulfate). This deep cleansing can be seen as a kind of thorough spring cleaning for the hair - it gives you room to breathe and make positive changes! Since the sulfate shampoo is so rarely on hand and can be immediately followed up with a moisturizing conditioner, this method is also no cause for concern and can give you a new opportunity to experiment (however, our curl boxes are all sulfate-free) - ultimately it is your own decision and based on experience.

2. Avoid water-insoluble silicones and other substances that simply settle on the hair

Water-insoluble silicones wrap around each strand of hair like a coat. Without resorting to aggressive and drying surfactants every time, these cannot be easily washed out and continue to build up on your hair. This layer ultimately makes your hair heavier, your curls/waves become droopy and dry out from the inside because no more moisture can reach the hair.
In addition to water-insoluble silicones, there are other substances that simply settle on the hair. These include petroleum-based waxes and oils (mineral oils, Vaseline, etc.), but also highly concentrated natural waxes such as beeswax or candelilla wax - but be careful, the emphasis with natural waxes is on highly concentrated! Here is the reason:
While there is no mercy with synthetic waxes, natural waxes must be viewed very carefully when it comes to CGM, because did you know that beeswax, candelilla wax and other plant-based waxes are not generally bad for curly hair? Namely when the specific recipe and the proportions make them easy to wash out (with warm water) and do not promote build-up :


Why is beeswax* and candelilla wax* in certain quantities and compositions very suitable for the care of curly/wavy hair?

Beeswax and candelilla wax are one of the most original, natural and healthy hold agents that have been used in curl care for centuries. Unlike petroleum-based waxes, beeswax and candelilla wax, when used in the right dosage and formulation, leave no residue on the hair or scalp and have the added benefit of hydrating the hair strands and helping to maintain curls for longer due to their excellent shaping properties.
Reason : In order to retain moisture in the hair, most curly heads need a good "sealer", a lipophilic substance that is applied after (LGO/LCO method) or during the styling routine (LOG/LOC method) to "lock in" the moisture in the hair. As already mentioned, lipophilic substances are suitable for this, as only these can create a barrier to prevent moisture from evaporating. Likewise, substances should be used that can be washed out again without the need for sulfates, so that no build-up occurs. Light plant oils such as argan oil or jojoba oil are therefore ideal (jojoba oil actually also belongs to the class of natural waxes!).
Products with a very small proportion of natural wax, such as beeswax and candelilla wax, are also excellent for holding/shaping and sealing. However, with beeswax and candelilla wax, the recipe and dosage are crucial. Of course, we advise against using products that consist mainly of wax, as these promote build-up and cannot be washed out without strong surfactants.
Lorraine Massey : "Avoid all products that are advertised as (...) 'wax'. They make your hair hard and brittle, like ramen noodles" (p. 80). By this, Lorraine Massey means pure waxes, you know those styling waxes from the supermarket or some drugstores, which are also often made for men's hair care.
So keep your hands off high-percentage waxes, pure synthetic waxes and natural waxes, or products that have one of these ingredients as the main ingredient. However, natural waxes can work excellently if they are added as a secondary ingredient, one of the last in the series (chemists of natural hair cosmetics recommend a ratio of around 1-3% of the product). In this case, beeswax and candelilla wax can be washed out with warm water without any problems , do not settle and often enrich the styling product immensely (you can simply feel the wonderful hold that the wax creates!). Candelilla wax also has an incredible number of nourishing properties.
Lorraine Massey : “Ingredients at the top of the list are the main ingredients. Those further back are present in small amounts, and those last are present in such small amounts as to be practically insignificant.” (p. 78).

If lipophilic substances such as oils or waxes are used frequently and for a long time, which is certainly the case with CGM, clarifying shampoos are highly recommended (see Clarifying ). Weak and droopy curls are usually caused by insufficient hair clarification, as our hair needs to "breathe" from time to time and be free of all kinds of deposits caused by oils, chlorine, lime, natural waxes or rich butter, especially shea butter.


*We know that beeswax and candelilla wax have a reputation online as being unfriendly to curls or even damaging to curls. Unfortunately, this is due to generalizations about waxes in general. For example, some people only describe CGM as "safe" if waxes are generally excluded - chemical facts are ignored. No distinction is made between petroleum-based waxes and natural waxes, nor are individual product recipes with their proportions and specific chemical compositions included in the debate. Unfortunately, this leads to incorrect conclusions and categorizations. Be careful: Even the "Curlsbot", which is actually excellent for separating products into safe and unsafe, does not yet differentiate between waxes, but we hope that the underlying algorithm will soon be able to do so in order to achieve even more accurate results.
Despite the clever tools, it is still worth doing your own research.

3. Avoid drying alcohols in styling products

Both moisturizing and drying alcohols are used in cosmetics. CGM excludes drying alcohols, especially in styling products such as gels, because they stay on the hair for a lot longer. Lorraine Massey does not see any pressing problem with alcohols in shampoo or conditioner, as long as the product contains sufficient moisturizing ingredients to counteract drying. CGM also excludes parabens.

4. Avoid harmful brushes and combs

According to Lorraine Massey's CGM, you only detangle your hair with your fingers to prevent breakage, split ends and the unraveling of the curls (because the goal is to have beautifully bundled curls). It is best to detangle your hair in the shower with plenty of conditioner, as conditioner is the best way to loosen knots and ensure sufficient "slip". Detangling with your fingers is also called finger detangling . Lorraine Massey also points out brushes/combs that some manufacturers claim are suitable for curly hair, but are not, so caution is advised!
However, many new manufacturers have now responded to the needs of curly hair with actually suitable curling brushes and combs that can detangle hair just as gently when wet with conditioner. Highly porous and thinner hair types in particular benefit greatly from such accessories , which make it easier to work conditioner into the hair and detangle the hair more quickly and effectively. Finger detangling alone can make things quite difficult for some curly hair types!

5. Avoid extreme heat

The CGM does not require strong heat. While straightening irons, curling irons and hot air dryers are definitely a "no go", diffusing on a cold to pleasantly warm setting is OK according to Lorraine Massey. Air drying is preferred, but it is up to each individual whether they use a diffuser or not. Some curlies absolutely need the diffuser for volume, others air dry for a while and diffuse briefly as a "finishing touch" for more volume at the end of the routine.

Lorraine Massey : “Blow dry your hair preferably with an ionic hairdryer with the diffuser attachment on low to medium heat.”

So what can you expect from the ingredients of the curl box?

Our philosophy

We love natural, original, plant-based ingredients.
We love understanding their effect on our waves/curls and breaking them down for you as we release each new curl box.

We therefore exclude the following ingredients, which is also consistent with Lorraine Massey’s CGM:

  • No sulfates
  • No silicones
  • No drying alcohols in styling products
  • No parabens
  • No mineral oil based products
  • No non-washable petroleum-based waxes (if a wax is in the rare case of a product, then it is of natural origin and can be washed out with water due to the extremely low dosage, as explained in detail above.)

Conclusion

The Curly Girl Method based on Lorraine Massey's manual is a great guide to naturally beautiful curls. As a beginner in CGM, it makes sense to first familiarize yourself with the rules in order to have a meaningful framework on the way to healthier and more beautiful curls. In the long term, however, the path to your own magnificent curls may be a very individual one and may deviate from the established "rules" here and there. As the saying goes: "Rules are made to be broken"!
We are convinced that only continuous observation and evaluation of your own hair's preferences will lead to success! The longer you deal with the specifics of your hair, the more you will get an authentic feeling for what is really good for your hair. Sometimes it may make sense to simply forget all the rules and simply follow your own intuition. Do you remember the times without social media or other sources of information, when you were completely on your own, intuitively cared for your curls and they looked amazingly good afterwards? And you thought, if only all my straight-haired friends knew what I had to do for these curls? Do other curly-haired people have similar methods, or do I have to resort to these measures and the rest of the curly-haired people just have innate dream curls?" Now we know that we are all in the same boat!
Developing an authentic feeling for the right care for your own hair may have a better chance of success in the long run than dogmatically following rules. Let yourself be inspired, but never limited. After all, it's about the beauty and the incredible potential that still lies in your hair!
It's your hair, your experiences and your decisions - we hope that with the Curl Box we can make your individual curl journey a little easier and inspire you to simply experiment.

That's why we love this curl community out there: Every day, curly girls all over the world experiment and invent new fabulous methods, all alone in front of their bathroom mirror. How great that we live in an age in which we can share our ever-new inventiveness, our creative ability, our successes and failures, our good and bad hair days with like-minded people, inspire each other and develop together for the better.

Much Love to all of you inspiring curly souls out there!